Sculpture in Putrajaya, Malaysia
I spent almost a month in Southeast Asia, visiting Malaysia and Thailand. I visited Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Langkawi Island in Malaysia, and then Hat Yai, Bangkok, Pattaya, Banphe and then Koh Samet Island in Thailand. It is a very different and a very interesting world. As usual, I collected some fairly random musings to share. They are neither profound nor funny, but merely interesting, at least to me. I offer them in no particular order and I hope you enjoy them.
SCREAMING CHILDREN ARE DIFFERENT
I have a lifelong dislike for screaming children. They are ill behaved and bothersome and I wish they would shut up. All of my patience allocated top children was spent on my own daughter who is now fully grown. However, I observed in Malaysia that screaming children are quite different. In America they are usually screaming in demand for something or as a way to manipulate their parents. In Malaysia they are usually screaming because they are having a good time or are excited. That seems quite different. Children I saw were excited about each other or something they saw, and never seemed to be demanding something or trying to get their way. It can still be a bit much at times, but it seems a lot better and healthier, and it really didn’t bother me. Children in Malaysia especially seemed happy and glad to be doing whatever they were doing. It might be a good place to be a child.
ISLAMIC DRESS
There is a wide variety of dress in Malaysia, from the very traditional to the very modern. As well, the different ethnic groups dress quite differently. The Malay Muslim women tended to dress in a traditional style, but I found it to be mostly lovely. The fabrics were remarkable in color and design as well as texture, and the additional elements (embroidery, sequins, etc.) were also quite nice. What this dumb westerner assumed would be a boring look was actually quite lovely while at the same time quite modest. I often wished I had some pants or a shirt that was made out of such beautiful fabric. The combinations of colors ever dazzled an almost color-blind guy like me.
THE WAR AGAINST PORK
The majority ethnic group in Malaysia is the Malay Muslims. They do not, of course, eat pork, nor do they wish to eat food cooked in a kitchen that prepares pork. The result is that the vast majority of places simply do not serve it. This can be amusing at a hotel western breakfast, where they offer clearly marked “beef bacon” and “chicken sausages.” One can scan many a menu and find no pork at all. There is some at isolated Chinese eateries, but for the most part it is a nation without pork.
BREAKFAST WITH A ZIP
Thai and Malaysian breakfasts are certainly different from western morning food. As in most of Asia, there is not a specified cuisine for breakfast, so variations of things served at other meals are available. While most western breakfasts can be fairly bland, that is no true of a breakfast here. There are not just zesty sauces and spices than can be added, but the dishes themselves are spicy and flavorful. As one who loves a spicy taste I have no problem with that, and actually enjoy it. Back home I will add some hot salsa to my breakfast, but here there is no need for that. A nice egg roti on the beach, or some fried rice with some very zesty beef in Pattaya is welcome and delicious. You need to be careful, though, based on your ability to handle it. “Medium” may well be quite hot, and “spicy” may be totally out of the range of some palates, including mine. Overall, I liked it very much.
WHERE ARE THE MOSQUITOES?
A tropical environment with lots of water (and standing water) usually means lots of mosquitoes. They love to suck my blood and they raise welts and it itches. A lot. One thing I noticed throughout the trip is that there were not that many of them. In Langkawi at dusk there were a few, but throughout the rest of the trip there were very few of them about. Lots of other bugs, but none that suck my blood and cause discomfort. It was easy to find effective and natural repellant, but it was rarely needed. I even liked the citronella smell, but hardly needed to use it. Oh, I got the occasional bite, but certainly nothing like Jamaica or my porch in Burlington, Vermont in the evening.
LEFT HAND DRIVE
It seems like it would be easy to handle, but it isn’t. Having been to the UK and Jamaica, I have seen left hand drive (drive on the left side of the road, steering wheel on the right side of the car). Driving involves a lot of reflex reactions (especially for someone fairly advanced in age like me) and you tend to just react, but in this situation that can be a very bad idea, putting you in the path o oncoming traffic when you think you are avoiding it. It even has an impact on the way people walk on the sidewalk, with people sort of bearing left. I wondered why I was running into people (not literally, but our paths tended to interact) so often early on in Kuala Lumpur. Escalators, stairs and sidewalks, not to mention roads, all work a little differently. I was soon convinced that I would not rent a car or a motorcycle. I can ill afford critical errors on some strange Thai road.
Besides, I can’t read the signs, especially in Thailand where they have a different alphabet.
EATING WHERE THE LOCALS EAT
There are almost always a wide variety of places to eat. In my experience the best places are often the least appealing in terms of architecture and menu accessibility. These are the places where the locals eat. In places like Langkawi you just need to walk out of the hotel and around until you find a place where Malaysian families and young people are eating.
There isn’t always a lot on the menu, but it is almost always very good and very cheap. The service can be a bi strange (not highly motivated, and perhaps only one person in the place speaks any English), but when the food comes that is okay. Even if you get the wrong dishes it is always delicious and very reasonable. They may not even have everything on the menu, but what they do have is good…and fresh! Getting the check can be a challenge at times, for the same reasons that getting someone to take your order can be difficult.
There was a small place on Langkawi where the owner got to know us and that was nice. No such place existed at Silver Sands on Koh Samet, but what wads there was fairly cheap and very good, so there wasn’t much need to walk inland and away from the tourists to find another place to eat.
Southeast Asian food is great, and the more genuine it is the better. You can get a nice lunch for two for $3 or a nice dinner for two for $4.
LIQUOR PRICING
Muslim countries are not into promoting liquor consumption, as the Koran forbids it. In Malaysia drinks in bars are very expensive, so stay away. Even if you get to a major store to buy a bottle it is not cheap. One exception is Langkawi, a resort island that has no extra taxes on liquor to attract tourists. That was nice. The hotel with a pool bar (swim up, take a seat in the water, have a drink) was even reasonable … and was a tourist hotel.
Thailand was different. At tourist bars and such things were reasonable but still not too cheap. In a small store, however, bottles were reasonable and especially so if you bought the local stuff. Thailand seems to have a good local liquor industry. More on this later.
By the way, I avoided things without English alphabet writing. Not sure what it would be.
Vietnamese Snake WineOne interesting liquor story concerned a Vietnamese concoction called Snake Wine. Not really wine, it is strange liquor, and in every bottle there is a cobra. That’s right, a real cobra. Jason Jarvis brought some by my room at Assumption University for me to try. Apparently the poison glands are removed before it is put in the bottle, but the snake still didn’t look too happy about it. Some ginseng root also seemed to be inside. It was clear, but it had the strangest taste I have ever had pass my lips. Jason was quite right, it tasted sort of reptilian. It was hot all the way down. I had one shot and could feel it right away. Jason said it almost had a psychedelic effect on him. I poured a second shot and only drank half of it before deciding that it may be more than I could handle. That’s right, 1.5 shots and I was done. If you buy, you might want to taste it, but I suggest keeping the full bottle as a conversation piece, as the snake is quite handsome. Jason said he had another bottle where the snake had a scorpion in its mouth, but I stayed away from that one.
REGGAE OMNIPRESENT
There seemed to be reggae everywhere. In taxis, on the street, in clubs, in bars, in restaurants, everywhere. There were two reggae clubs on Langkawi, and Maddy and Mandy had a good time at the bigger of the two. At the previously mentioned pool bar in Langkawi they played classic reggae songs one after the other all afternoon. The Thai girl ho was bartending said she loved it. On Koh Samet there was a nice reggae club that seemed large and well-attended, but seemed a bit mainstream (I don’t need to go to Thailand to hear Bob Marley). I saw a poster for a reggae band from the Philippines, but did not get to hear them. Lots of counterfeit reggae cds on sale throughout Thailand, even in the little store on Koh Samet.
WORLDWIDE CHINATOWN
There seems to be a Chinatown in so many places all over the world. In Kuala Lumpur and in Bangkok this was true. They all seem to have the same flavor – small shops, lots of exotic food and snacks, interesting strange goods, and quite often the family that runs the shop is living there as well. There are narrow streets and things happening on the streets – whether it is cooking in huge pots, tanks of live animals or even a Chinese martial arts class being held at 10:30 PM.
LONG LIVE THE KING
The King of Thailand has a pretty good gig going. He is incredibly loved and worshiped. I remember reading about YouTube being blocked from Thailand because a video critical of the kind had been posted, and that seemed sot of silly to me, but not after I had been there for a while. For example:
- Every town has a huge arch over the main street decked out in gold celebrating the king
- He is celebrated as a philosopher king, and also apparently excels in photography and music.
- Most businesses have a photo of him (often with his consort) in a prominent spot.
- Bookstores are full of books about him. I saw one called “My Digital Way” where he discusses his techniques at digital photography.
- The code of conduct everyone had to sign to attend the World Universities Debating Championship made you promise not to speak ill of the king.
- See the section below about the palace.
- The WUDC trophy was given by the king, and the free shirt everyone got (pink) had a salutation about the king embroidered in gold on the back.
- Any dictator I have ever heard of would be very jealous of the cult of personality that the king of Thailand has. Big Brother could only hope for so much veneration.
Now I understand the special role of the king in Thailand. For example, the king is often very critical of the government for not being concerned enough about the people. Historically the king of Thailand was critical in making sure that Thailand did not become a colony. Much of Thailand’s modernization in the last 19th and early 20th century came about at the urging of the kings. The military may coup against the government, but always stays loyal to the king. He, along with his several predecessors, is highly educated and studied extensively abroad. And, he is a sign of stability, just celebrating his 80th birthday. Hey, they want a king and they have one. It seems to work for them.
PALACE WITH THE MOSTEST
The royal palace in Bangkok is an amazing place. I have been to a number of palaces but this one seems to be the best. The newer parts are fairly European and not very impressive, but the older parts are truly beautiful. The golden domes, the incredibly beautiful sculpture, the emerald Buddha and all are very impressive. It is not surprising to see such a place in a country that has never been a colony.
My favorite part are the wall paintings that surround one of the main compounds, and most tell the story of classical events from Thai past, especially the amazing adventures of King Rama, and the images of incredible figures, such as monkey people, demons, spirits, brave warriors, lovely women, mer-people and normal people are amazing, especially in the context of the beautiful countryside and the amazing buildings that are depicted. I wish I had the time to have an expert walk me through each of them and explain the stories behind them. There is one that I can only describe as “holy shit” that probably needs no additional information.
Of all the tourist sites I saw in Thailand the royal palace would be number one.
NEVER A COLONY
Thailand is one of the few Southeast Asian countries that can claim this. I cannot know the real truth about why, but the official Thai story seems to be that the monarchs realized the threat of colonial powers and refused to be bribed by them to let them sink their economic roots down in the country. They also promoted and demanded a rapid development of the country to defuse the arguments that Thailand needed to be “civilized,” in terms of education, communication, electrification, sanitation and the like. The royals also took two long journeys to Europe to establish direct personal and political ties to those powers to try and remove temptations for colonization. Thailand also sent troops to fight on the side of the allies in World War One, so this removed France’s ability to pressure Thai borders with French Indochina by using the argument that Thais died for France. Something stopped Thailand from becoming a colony, and these are some of the stories being told.
TAXI ANTICS AND OTHER RIP OFFS
Malaysia and Singapore are fairly straightforward about charges and prices. You can bargain, but many things are set, like taxi fares and hotel rates. Thailand is quite different. Taxi drivers refuse to use their government-installed meters and when you try to bargain they seem to size up how much you can pay and go for the limit. We took to small cabs from the airport to our hotel, and after asking for more than the original deal one driver tried to leave without making change for the large bill he had received from me. By the way, both drivers tried to charge more than the taxi dispatcher had told me the charge should be. I also spent some time as a taxi driver. I also had a hotel charge my credit card a certain amount on check in and then ask for additional payment on check out. A close inspection showed that the amount charged to the card had not been credited to the rooms. It took a vigorous protest and a shaking of the credit card receipt in my hand to get this straightened out. The line “do you have the pink receipt you received” indicated to me that this is a fairly standard practice, because no pink receipt was given, and I know that because I keep all such documents (a habit as a widely traveled debate coach). I do not mind bargaining, but I will not be ripped off. It doesn’t help that the Thai bills look alike or that there are a lot of zeros in the money. I remember catching Turkish taxi drivers trying to switch a 100,000 note and a 1,000,000, and I made sure it didn’t happen.
SO MANY BUDDHAS
I often remark as I travel around the Christian world at how many “bleeding Jesuses” there are. I guess that comes from being in Slovenia for five months in 2006. I do not intend to offend anyone’s faith, but the sheer number of such images can be a bit disconcerting.
In Thailand it is all about the Buddhas. There are a lot of them. A huge number of them. Unlike the Jesus figures, in Thailand they line them up in row upon row or stack them one on top of another. They are also often golden, or at least gilded. One of the things that believers do, for example, is to bring gold foil and run the gold onto the statues to show devotion. I am not sure all f them get gilded in this way, but certainly a lot of them get golden refreshment in this way.
Bojana pointed out that while Jesus is often very thin and suffering, Buddha is quite often chubby and smiling. I am sure that there is a deep meaning here, but I am not sure I am ready to expound on that right now. I need to think about it.
SEX TOURISM IN THAILAND
I tried to stay away from most of the nasty areas I heard about the read about. Most of what I saw was pretty tame. I noticed that in Bangkok there seemed to be come interesting couples, with some 30s-40s western males with 20s-30s Thai females. They seemed to be together for a period of days around the hotel. This was the same on Koh Samet where there were come interesting couples, but once again in the same age range. They actually seemed kind of romantic, holding hands along the beach, together for a period of days and having a nice time. Bojana did hear a nasty argument about “not being paid” that took place in one of the cottages on Koh Samet, but that seemed to resolve itself. I also saw a couple of male escorts of Thai extraction with women from the west, and some sad kissing goodbyes on the shore when the women were getting into speedboats to leave.
Of course, all of this may be simply my construction. They may have been couples coming back to Thailand for a vacation, or real romantic hook-ups, or whatever. One couple I thought seemed very suspicious struck up a conversation with me, and it turns out they have been living together in Canada for several years and had come back to Thailand to get married and were now on their honeymoon.
I did avoid downtown Pattaya, which is apparently not so nice. Phuket is also said to be somewhat sordid.
RUSSIANS IN PATTAYA
The last few days of the WUDC we stayed in a huge tourist complex in Pattaya called Ambassador City. There were several main hotels there, and the nicest one seemed full of Russians. There were men, women, couples, families, but mostly Russian. Many of the signs and menus were also in Russian. Many members of the staff spoke Russian. I had some conversations with a few Russians in the lobby where there was free wireless.
FINALLY, DECENT DOMESTIC RUM
You had to know there would be a rum report. Thailand has native rum called Sang Som, and I found it to be fairly good. There are some strange stories going around about it containing strychnine and methamphetamines, but these do not seem to be true. It is one of the largest selling liquors in the world; it turns out, and is very popular. It was very popular among people at the tournament and hotels I was at, and people swear by the fact that it is quite good to the head on the day after. I found it to be very smooth and without much bite. It is also very cheap and easy to find. Learn more at http://sangsomrum.com/home.htm
ISLAND TOURISM
To read about my Koh Samet experiences, go to
http://alfredsnider.blogspot.com/2008/01/koh-samet.htmlKoh Samet beachLANTERNS INTO THE SKY
One of my favorite things on this trip was the paper lanterns that are lit and released into the sky. At the closing of the WUDC in Thailand they lit 100 of them and released them into the sky one after the other as the ceremony ended. It was a stunning representation of everyone leaving and returning to his or her homes.
On Koh Samet you could buy one for relatively little, the seller would unroll it, and then light the small wick in the middle of it whole you held it. After it had fully inflated and gained buoyancy, you would release it and watch it sail off into the night sky. Soon the distant lantern would merge into the starry night sky.
And like that lantern, I have now sailed off into the sky and landed in a distant country. I look out of my window and see the snow falling. I love it here in Vermont, as it is my home and chosen abode. But, I will remember this trip fondly.
WILLIAM M. SCHENK RICHMOND - William Murrell Schenk of Richmond passed away on Jan. 21, 2008, after a seven-year battle with cancer. Bill was born Feb. 3, 1940, in Cincinnati, Ohio, the only child of Lena Catherine (Murrell) and William F. Schenk. Bill graduated from Western Hills High School in 1958 and received his BFA and MA in theater arts from Ohio State University. He married Carrye E. Pugh (Betsy) in 1963 and was hired by the University of Vermont as an assistant professor in the then fledgling theater department in 1965. In his 37 years of service to the University, Bill served as the technical director, scenic and lighting designer, teacher, mentor and as chairman for 10 years. Bill was a charter member of the International Alliance of Theatrical Stage Employees, Local 919, representing professional stagehands in Vermont, and worked for years as a stagehand on numerous professional theater, dance and concert tours in venues in and around Vermont. Bill was also active in labor organization at the University of Vermont. During his tenure at the university Bill was instrumental in the growth of the theater department, overseeing the renovation of and move to its current home, the Royall Tyler Theatre, in the 1970s. Bill's passion and love of scenic, lighting design and stage management can been seen in the hundreds of his students who have gone on to professional careers in the performing arts. Bill is survived by his beloved wife, and artist in her own right, Carrye E. Schenk (Betsy); daughter Morgan E. Pierce, husband Craig Pierce and their daughter Eryn E. Pierce, the apple of Bill's eye. They reside in Goffstown, N.H. Bill's passing will be deeply mourned by the many businesses, academic professionals and students whom he touched during his long, successful career. In lieu of flowers, donations my be made to the William M. Schenk Award for Technical Excellence at the University of Vermont and/or the Vermont Respite House, 99 Allen Brook Lane, Williston, VT 05495. For more information concerning the William M. Schenk award please email Molly. Kurent@UVM.edu. There will be a celebration of Bill's life at the Royall Tyler Theatre, 116 University Place in Burlington, on Feb. 2 at 10 a.m. “And when you're consoled (everyone eventually is consoled) you'll be glad you've known me. You'll always be my friend.“ Antoine De Saint Exupery. Arrangements are in the care of Stephen C. Gregory & Son, Shelburne.
